More bridge building pics.

More bridge construction photos. East bank abutment. Since these photos were taken I have backfilled the wall, poured concrete for the upstream wing, and begun foundation work on the down stream wing.

Once all of the wing work is done on this side of the creek, I will pour a concrete slab over the wall and backfill. Then its off to the west side of the stream to do this again. I am also thinking of building a center pier to increse the bridge load carring ability.

Pouring concrete today.

I was caught working on the bridge today.

Update photo progress.

Its been awhile since I posted any pics on the my woodfired water boiler project for home heating. Here is the boilerhouse showing the summers progress. Pretty much all the brickwork is now done. I still need to fit the windows in and build a door. Finish the roof and add the firewood chute from the adjacent wood shed are after that.

Video of my latest firing of my bottle kiln.

Here is my latest brick kiln firing video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZ2vs7IdjAs

Bridge progress #2

Its a slow process building my first bridge abutment on the east bank of my creek. Have to make the time after work and some more on weekends for the concrete pours and bricklaying. And to think this is only the first! I have to do it all over again on the west bank of the creek next.

At least I can count my blessings, the creek provides me with most of my raw materials. Sand, gravel and rocks are plentiful and free for the taking a mere few feet from where im building it.

I have no experience with building a bridge like this. What I know comes from exploring on the internet and looking around at other ones near my home for ideas. I know that the abutments have to be big and heavy so as not to be washed away when the spring floods come.

Ive started on my replacement bridge.

Im finally underway on my replacement bridge. The bridge will cross the small creek on the property that limits access to my workshop and future site of my pole barn. I am building the foundation piers on both banks. Not sure what form the finished bridge will take yet. I first had in mind a concrete or brick arch bridge, but have lately thought a steel pony truss bridge may be quicker and cheaper. i have most of the materials already on site. Either way its gonna be a long project. Probably a year to complete it if im lucky!

This is a small pony truss bridge photo to give you an example of what I want to build. The deck it missing from this old one though.

Here is another pic of a pony truss near my home. It has a poured concrete deck over steel under framework. My plans call for a span of about 32 feet and a deck width of aroun 12 feet.

Here is a stone arch bridge like the one I at first wanted to make. I think it would be to huge a job for me to try this now.

Bottle kiln, firing #2, better but not good

I kept the top temp of the firing down to around 1850'F at the pryometer. But the center of the chamber still got much hotter than that! Gonna have to rethink the kiln and firing cycle some.

Improved results over first firing of the new bottle kiln, but along way from good results.

Can you tell which brick is wood fired and which one is electric fired? Both were fired to 1850'F.

Monster results. Too hot!

The bricks literally MELTED! Wow thats gotta be the hottest kiln Ive made ever.

It took me a few hours with a hammer and chisel to force remove these clinkers.

Heres what it looked like when I first opened it up. You can see that more heat was at the center of the chamber. It was cooler th the edges. Well over 2000 in the middle. Maybe 1800 by the walls.

I do like the wood glazing that occurred on the bricks. The cracking and tearing is most likely from the rapid heating of the clay in the bricks. Need to slow it down to at least double the time on firing. At least 8 to 10 hours. And max temp no more than 1850'F.

Here are a few more pics.

The firebox door.

A look down thru the chimney.

A cutaway diagram.

New brick bottle kiln. The 'Monster'

My latest clay furnace is a small bottle updraft named 'Monster' by my daughter after an energy drink she says it looks like.

Ive wanted to experiment with a different design, hoping to gain easier firings and higher temps.

Just a bunch of firebricks surrounding an old cut up 55 gallon barrell. That surrounded by red brick.

It took me only 4.5 hours to reach 2000'F, and it could have went further if I pushed it. May have went too hot for the clay I was using for the test bricks inside.

Looks to be a real improvement so far though. I will post the results soon.

I pressed out 12 clay bricks last week just for this test firing today. Finished drying them in my electric kiln last night.

Heres a peek inside at the end. See the brick slumped over. Got too hot I think. Gonna have to slow down this beast and run it to 1850 - 1900'F max.

Tennessee red clay test firing.

My wife and I went on vacation last week to the mountains of Gatlinburg, Tennessee. I gathered a sample of the well known local red clay to test once I got back home. I wanted to try it out to see how it compared to the clay from my back yard here in Indiana.


The differences in clay is most noticed by color from the iron oxides. Both types have it, but it is more obvious in states of the south. It may have to do with glaciers that overran the northern states like Indiana thousands of years ago.

I brought back several pounds of red clay from my vacation in a plastic tub for test firing.

The outer two are Tennessee red clay and the inner two are Indiana clay. Green unfired from the brick press. The sample clay is very sticky and plastic. It makes a nice unfired brick.

The brick on top is Pigeon Forge, Tennessee red clay. The other three are Flora, Indiana brown clay. Fired in the same kiln for 9 hrs to 1875deg F. Notice the difference in shrinkage.

Heres the address if you are interested in why some clays are so much more red than brown, yellow, or grey.

http://www.ga.nrcs.usda.gov/technical/soils/red.html

Flash flood takes out my bridge!

Monday afternoon a huge line of thunderstorms tore through Indiana. Lots of wind, a few possible tornados, and massive quantities of rain. In a few hours, several inches of rain added to weeks of previous rainfall. It was too much for my old improvised steel frame bridge. The water spilled over the creek banks and swept up logs and debris. I had relied on this bridge for over ten years to cross this creek to get to my workshop trailer. Now I will be looking to push ahead with my plans to construct a larger bridge. One that a full sized truck can go over. I will keep all of you posted as I progress with it.

Progress at the boilerhouse.

Heres a new photo for all of you. As you can see Its comming along now. I still have alot of work to do on the north and east walls. Then its a door and a window along with finishing the roof.

Firing temps and brickmaking

The finished color and hardness of a clay brick has alot to do with the highest temp achieved and length of time held there before cool down. There doesn't seem to be as much effect on outcome if the ramp up time to peak temperatre is varied shorter or longer. Obviously the type of clay will have a profound influence on the finished product as well. But here I will focus on firing temp of a single type of clay.

Below are tiles and bricks of the exact same source of clay, prepaired the same way before firing.

They are identical except for the one brick on the lower left. The three of the same color were fired to 1900 deg F over an 8 hr period in my electric kiln. The darker brick made at the same time as the others, was fired to 2000 deg F over 9.5 hrs in the same kiln. All settings on the kiln were identical.

The surface of the darker brick is closer to that of a paver or clinker. It has a reflective quality to it that the others do not. All the bricks and tiles are fired fully and have a strong 'ring' when tapped together. The darker brick has a higher ptched ring to it.

If I were to ever try to make pavers or outdoor tile, they would be fired much like the darker brick. I believe the water proof qualities should be higher.

Notice the small paw prints on the one tile. My kittens were having fun after I made up the tiles.

Graphic example of clay shrinkage from firing.

I hadn't ever really gave much thought to clay shrinkage from the firing process. I had read about how it is a normal thing to happen. After making a few more pressed clay bricks for a later firing, I put a finshed brick next to them to compare the colors. What caught my eye though was the size difference of before and after. Pretty amazing when you get a side by side like this.

Bricks in three days

Saturday I came up with a bold idea. To see how quickly I could make a dozen bricks from start to finish. From digging up natural clay all the way to a finshed ready to use good product. It took me two days. Thats it. Three if you want to count cooldown and inspection.

Here are the steps involved and the outcome.

1. Dug up a wheelbarrow load of Flora clay straight out of the ground behind my barn. The clay was already damp from a previous days rainfall. No water will be added.

1:00 pm Saturday

2. Removed all obvious twigs, rocks, and non clay looking dirt material from the load to be formed into bricks. Flora clay at my location is nearly free of roots, rocks or sand. Unusually clean and ready to use for this area of Indiana farmland.

2:00 pm

3. Load brick press and press out 12 bricks. Used all three of my frog logos just for the heck of it.

3:30 pm

4. Load into the electric kiln to begin the drying out. This is really tricky. Too fast and they crack. Too slow and the wont dry for a month!

4:00pm to 9:00pm Saturday.

5. Fire in the electric kiln to at least 2000'F.

7:30am to 9:00pm Sunday

6. Cooldown , unload and inspection.

4:00pm Monday

Success!!!!